AMARNATH
CAVE
The story of the Amarnath cave has it that Shiva had recounted
to his consort Parvati the secret of creation, in a cave in Amarnath.
Unknown to them, a pair of doves heard this conversation and having
learnt this secret, are immortal and have made the cave their
eternal abode. This pair of doves is also seen at 12:00 noon during
the winters at the Pashupathinath Temple in Kathmandu I had the
good fortune seeing these doves at the Cave during my pilgrimage
at Amarnath as well as at Pashupathinath temple.

The trek to Amarnath is done in the month of Shravan where the
image of Shiva in the form of ice lingam is formed naturally and
which waxes and wanes with the moon. By its side are two more
lingams that of Mata Parvati and of their son Ganesha. The trek
can be done on ponies or dandies I had taken the dandy, which
is arranged at the base.
The common practice is to begin the journey from Chandanwari
and cover the distance to Amarnath and back in five days- the
trek is 30 km one way with night halts at Sheshnag and Panchtarni.
The distance from Phalgham to Chandanwari is 16 km is covered
by vehicle as there is a motorable road unto the camp. Amarnath
is situated in a narrow gorge at the farther end of Lidder valley
at 3888 m.
The first day's trek of 12 km from Chandanwari is through spectacular,
primeval countryside and the main attraction is the night camp
at Sheshnag, a mountain which derives its name from its seven
peaks resembling the heads of the mythical Sheshnag snake. The
journey to Sheshnag follows steep in lines up the right bank.
There are tents put up for resting the night overlooking the deep
blue waters of the Sheshnag Lake, and the glaciers beyond it.
We had reached our destination on Nag-Panchami, which was auspicious.
The second day's trek is 12 km steadily gaining height, winding
up across Mahagunas Pass at 4600 m and then descending to the
meadow- lands of Panchtarni, the last camp enroute to the holy
cave.

The third day a very early morning start from Panchtarni to Amarnath,
which is 6kms, is done. Before we reach the last lapse of our
journey there is a place to have a bath in one of the glaciers.
After the bath we can start on the last lapse i.e. there are steps
to climb up the way to the cave. Entrance to the cave is regulated
and darshan is spectacular and awesome. The devotees sing bhajans,
chant incantations, and pujaris perform aarti and puja invoking
the blessings of Shiva, the divine, pure, innocent, the absolute.
As per the day the ice lingam size depends as it grows and melts
as per the moon. Next to the Shiva Lingam is the next railing
wherein is the Mata Parvati and the Ganesha lingam. Look up to
the ceiling of the cave in search of the doves' yes they are there
during that time. The trial of the trek is tedious but everyone
has to have the divine manifestation darshan so one has to leave
fast as others can also enjoy this spectacular darshan. The same
day following the darshan devotees return to Panchtarni and proceed
for night halt at Sheshnag. The next day is the journey back to
Chandanwari/ Phalgham. The faith with which one undertakes this
journey one is rewarded the experience.
The second route from Srinagar is a one-day route as few of our
groups had taken that route.