Kerala's
most important Krishna shrine, the high-walled temple of Guruvayur,
29km northwest of Thrissur, attracts a constant flow of pilgrims,
second only in volume to Ayappa's at Sabarimala. Its deity, Guruvayurappan,
has inspired numerous poems. One of the richest temples in Kerala;
Guruvayar temple is open from very early morning to late at night
with pilgrims in their best white clothes, often trimmed with
gold. Closed to non-Hindus, the temple has turned away many famous
people in its time.
Of the temple's twenty-four annual festivals, the most important
are Ekadashi and Ulsavam. During the eighteen days of Ekadashi,
in the month of Vrischikam (Nov/Dec), marked by processions of
caparisoned elephants outside the temple, the exterior of the
building may be decorated with the tiny flames of innumerable
oil lamps. During Ulsavam, in the month of Kumbham (Feb/March),
tantric rituals are conducted inside, an elephant race is run
outside on the first day and elephant processions take place during
the ensuing six days. On the ninth day, the Palivetta, or "hunt"
occurs; the deity, mounted on an elephant, circumambulates the
temple accompanied by men dressed as animals, who represent human
weaknesses such as greed and anger, and are vanquished by the
god. The next night sees the image of the god taken out for ritual
immersion in the temple tank; devotees greet the procession with
oil lamps and throw rice. It is considered highly auspicious to
bathe in the tank at the same time as the god.
The legend goes like this
The temple dedicated to Lord Krishna was destroyed when the holy
city of Dwaraka was submerged under the sea. Guru, the preceptor
of the Gods, and his disciple Vayu, God of Winds were entrusted
with the job of finding an equally holy spot for a new temple,
to install the idol. At the end of a long pursuit, they reached
Kerala and met Parasurama, legendary creator of Kerala. He led
them to a beautiful lake full of lotuses, the present temple tank,
Rudratirtha. The idol was duly placed at this spot and called
Guruvayurappan, or the Lord of Guruvayur.
In the 'chuttambalam' or outer enclosure of the temple, is the
tall 33.5-m high gold-plated 'dhwajastambham' or flag-post. The
7-m high 'dipastambham' or pillar of lamps is a splendid spectacle
when lit.
Wonderful artisanship can be seen on the ten pillars that are
just near the entrance. Bhattatiri, the devoted 'Bhakta' of Guruvayurappan,
is believed to have sat here, composing the famous Narayaniyam,
the great Sanskrit poetical work of 1036 slokas, singing the praise
of the Lord.
The square, two-storied, 'srikoil' is the sacred sanctorum of
the temple, housing the main deity. This idol of Krishna, with
four arms carrying the conch, the discus, the mace and the lotus,
and adorned with a thulasi garland and pearl necklaces, is made
of a particular stone called 'patala anjanam'.